I ate all the pies.

This is pie heaven. Lots of tasty empañadas for me to eat. You have to get a good one otherwise they´re greasy and filled with gristle and insects and so forth, but the good one are divine. Yum yum yum.

Arica isn´t the most scintillating of places but I am enjoying myself. It´s basically used by tourists as a stop-off point for Peru (and Bolivia) so there aren´t many gringos around. Mercifully. I absolutely loathe gringos, don´t you? Mmm. It´s mainly used by Chileans as a holiday destination though (it´s on the beach) . The main attraction for me is this brilliant hostel which I am staying in, which involves the Shower of Hope and the Breakfast of Joy (including quinoa which is the local grain, like. Think Rice Krispies, but with more gravitas). There´s quite a funky archeological museum which I saw today, with the oldest mummies yet discovered, and a dinky little cathedral designed by Gustav Eiffel. I also loomed around the cemetery which was interesting, if a bit on the garish side.

Best of all though, were the sea lions at the port, wallowing around feeding of the scraps from the market/fishermen. Also loads of pelicans. I think something of my seafaring ancestors is stirring within, maybe that´s why I quite like this place. Going on a boat trip tomorrow to see the proper colonies of sea lions and penguins. Penguins? Can that be right...? Maybe I mean pelicans. Hmm, we´ll soon find out. Anyway, let´s hope I don´t get carried away and try and board a cargo ship or something. I also braved a seafood soup for lunch (this is the kind of Xtreme travelling you can expect from me) which had some interesting creatures (mostly dead) bobbing around in it. No bad effects so far which probably means I ´m in the clear.

I´ve managed to resist War and Peace so far and am currently reading a history of Latin America which is quite academic but I am coping. Also whizzed through Che Guevara´s Motorcycle Diaries which was good. He was obviously a bit of a megalomaniac but quite a good writer from what I can see. Quite interesting about Peru so I may have to re-read that bit when I get there. Apparently, there are/were dolphins there with genitals like female humans and the Indians would...um...have their way with the dolphins when frustrated. Sounds like one for Rob´s Unusual Sex Tourism itinerary.

For those of you interested in my health (that´s all of you, isn´t it?) I have managed to avoid the runs so far, although have had a case of the brisk walks. Boom boom. I have sunburnt my elbows and have a mild case of beard anxiety. Slightly concerned about the altitude in La Paz (where I go on Saturday - hurrah!) but I only got a bit of a headache up on the altiplano at San Pedro so no doubt I´ll be fine.

So there you have it.